Tandoori chai is street theatre as much as it is a drink. The chai wallah heats a small clay kulhad directly in the flame until it glows red, then plunges it into a cup of freshly brewed chai. The clay hisses. Smoke rises. The chai takes on a faint earthy, charred note that is completely specific to this technique and which you will not find in any other preparation.
It originated in the street stalls of Delhi and Amritsar and spread quickly. There are now tandoori chai stalls in every major Indian city, and for good reason.
Making it at home requires an unglazed clay kulhad and some care with the heat. Everything else is standard chai.
Method
Step 1: Brew the chai
Combine the water and milk in a saucepan. Add the cardamom pods and grated ginger. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Add the tea leaves. Allow to come to a near-boil, stirring, then reduce heat and simmer for 3–4 minutes until the colour is a deep reddish-brown and the spices are fragrant.
Add sugar to taste. Strain into two large heatproof glasses or cups — make them deeper than usual, as the kulhad displacement will raise the liquid level.
Step 2: Heat the kulhad
Using tongs, hold the unglazed clay kulhad directly over a gas flame on medium-high. Rotate it for even heating. After 4–5 minutes, the kulhad will begin to glow slightly and will produce a distinct earthy, almost toasty aroma. It should be very hot to the tongs — not merely warm.
Important: Only use unglazed kulhads. Glazed pottery will crack and may release harmful compounds when heated this way.
Step 3: The pour
Working quickly over a heat-safe surface, use the tongs to lower the hot kulhad into one of the prepared cups of chai. It will hiss loudly, produce a plume of steam and light smoke, and the chai will absorb the smoky clay character within 30–45 seconds.
Remove the kulhad. Repeat with the second cup.
Serve immediately, while the chai is still steaming.
Notes
- The kulhads. Buy them from an Indian grocery store or online — they are inexpensive and sold in packs. Dry them completely before heating and do not reuse a kulhad for the smoking step; each one is essentially single-use for this purpose (they crack with repeated extreme heating).
- The smoke. A small amount of smoke is correct. Excessive smoke means the kulhad was heated too long or the chai is too full. Work in a ventilated kitchen.
- Without a gas flame. This recipe requires direct flame. It cannot be replicated on an induction hob. If you do not have gas, a kitchen blowtorch held at distance can work, though the result is less consistent.
The result: masala chai with a faint charred earthiness that makes it taste ancient and immediate at the same time. Worth the slightly theatrical effort.